by Valerie Palmer
It is important to add organic matter to your soil every
year - whether you're using chemical fertilizers or
gardening organically. Healthy soil is alive, actually
teeming with earthworms and micro-organisms by the millions
that have each got particular functions in making the soil
fertile. If your garden soil is going to continue to
produce for you, it needs to be fed plenty of organic
material.
Soil life eats and decomposes organic matter, which causes
minerals to be released in a form that plant roots can
absorb. In addition to this fertilizing effect, all the
organic waste helps the texture of the soil - loosening
hard-packed clay or binding loose, sandy soil. Humus gives
the soil its necessary sponge-like texture that allows air
circulation and moisture retention.
For these natural processes to occur, the soil life needs
fresh supplies of food. Without this fuel, earthworms go
away and the minerals and nutrients get 'locked' in soil
particles, not available for plant growth. Insect pests and
diseases take over the weakened plants. Pouring on the
chemical fertilizers won't help because they don't
contribute to soil texture and flourishing soil life.
This is a simplification of a very complex natural process
of soil chemistry that justifies in-depth study in its own.
But the intention here is to give a basic idea of the
absolute necessity of a generous annual addition of organic
matter to all continuously used garden soil. Now, here are
some suggestions about how to feed the soil.
One method, of course, is to chop garden residues and
weeds into the soil after a crop is harvested. Also,
there's the option to haul in compost, in packages or in
bulk when available. If there are processors in your area,
(such as canneries or cider mills), often they will have
waste organic material for the taking. Nearby farms
usually welcome removal of animal manures: cattle, horses,
chicken and rabbit. Any hay or straw used as mulch can be
chopped in, along with leaves and lawn clippings.
The fastest and easiest way to turn almost any bit of soil
into superior loam is to use cover-crops, also known as
green manures, and till them in. Over time, this practice
will add to the topsoil rather than taking it away with
harvested crops. This is especially necessary for the
gardener who is growing food in the long-term on the same
patch of ground.
Some notes:
1) Green manures can be grown in rotation: follow an early
cover-crop with a late season planting of produce, or a
plant a late green manure following an early vegetable crop
like peas and lettuce). That way even small gardens can
have a harvest crop and a cover-crop each year.
2) Using green manures can be done by any gardener with or
without powered equipment. However, a roto-tiller is the
easiest method. If necessary, you can rent one.
Here are some suggestions for home garden cover-crops. A)
Use legumes such as soybeans, peas, vetch, and alfalfa.
They will 'fix' nitrogen from the atmosphere when you use
'inoculated' seeds that are attractive to a certain kind of
microbe. Also, some legumes are vegetables, providing both
a food and a green manure with the same crop. B) Plant
ryegrass for a bulky, hardy crop that grows quickly. An
annual variety is best, so that a late-summer crop will die
back during winter allowing easy tillage in spring. C) For
extremely poor soil, buckwheat is recommended. It will
grow quickly and choke out weeds as well. Sow buckwheat
for a main summer crop, after harvesting lettuce, etc.
The benefits to the soil of using cover-crops can't be
overstated. In addition, there are other advantages: they
help control weeds, they attract bees, and the carpet of
green makes the garden look good right up to snowfall.
